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Vietnam Open Tour News & Events

SUNDAY 03 JANUARY, 2010 | RSS Feed

Alleys form soul of old Hoi An

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Local residents walk in a narrow alley in Hoi An.

Falling in love with Hoi An in the central province of Quang Nam is to fall in love with its wonderful alleyways, which for locals are the soul of their home town.

According to the town’s documents, major roads in Hoi An, such as Tran Phu, Nguyen Thai Hoc and Bach Dang were formed in the 17th century along the Hoai River. A system of alleyways then gradually evolved to link those roads.

Many alley names remind locals and visitors of historic and folk legends. Sica Alley once had the French Sica alcohol stores, and Ba Le Alley had the Ba Le well with water that was sweetest and coolest in Hoi An.

There are other wells believed to be blessed by beneficent genii, the ancient spirits that were part of the seventh century Champa Kingdom, a Hindu-Buddhist culture with trading routes around Southeast Asia.

Alleys in Hoi An are often so narrow they can only fit two or three people walking alongside each other- and their sides are the sides of houses or garden walls.

The alleys are long and covered with moss and lichen and many contain small well that have witnessed families and neighbours gathering for generations.

Thai Te Bieu lives in a home in an alley on Tran Phu Street with four generations of his family. His son and daughter have set up businesses in the city centre.

"If my descendants must, they can move to other places, but I can’t leave this alley," said Bieu. "There are so many memories."

The director of the Hoi An Centre for Monument Management and Preservation, Nguyen Chi Trung, said the alleys were integral parts of Hoi An’s architecture, establishing its links with the past.

"For so many years, the ancient houses have existed along with the lanes to serve them," Trung said.

"Many tourists have fallen in love with Hoi An just because of the alleys," Trung said. "They provide a sense of a countryside community in the town."

For Hoi An people, the alleys are bridges for neighbourly affection. Pham Thi Loc and Tran Thi Cung, who live in an alley on Nguyen Thai Hoc Street, realise this after decades of togetherness.

"We live in two different houses, but it’s just like one," they said. "Although we are not relatives, we love each other like sisters and are always together.

"A special thing is that tourists quickly acquire our way of behaving," Loc said. "As the paths are narrow, they always give way to others with friendly smiles."

Trung said the meaning of alleys would be promoted in the future when Hoi An became a city completely without cars and motorbikes.

"People will prefer to walk through alleys to save space and time," he said.

Hoi An authorities said they were determined to keep the alleys intact as some had become busy trading points with booming tourism. "To preserve the soul of the city, we attach special importance to keeping waves of traders from entering the alleys," Trung said. "Streets without motor vehicles were moves to keep that soul."

"We believe that locals and tourists comprehend the spiritual value of each alley they are living in or walking through."

Cultural exchanges strengthen characters of Hoi An
 
Hoi An is speeding up cultural-exchange programmes, especially festivals, to promote tourism in the city whose history stretches back 2,000 years. Phung Tan Dong, a culture researcher at the Hoi An Centre for Culture, Sports and Tourism, talks with Viet Nam News about the subject.

What is the role of festivals in displaying Hoi An culture?

Festivals are indispensable parts of the spiritual activities of Hoi An people. There are hundreds of festivities small and large each year and they all reflect the inner life of a city that has a long tradition of mixing trade and culture with other nations. The way I look at it, cultural exchange is the most special feature of the city.

Can you make this clearer?

Traditional festivities by Hoi An natives include peace-praying ceremonies in villages and anniversaries of trade ancestors in the Kim Bong carpentry and Thanh Ha pottery production areas. The festivals also reflect the living of inhabitants along the river and coast, such as praying for fish.

But some Japanese customs can be seen through the blessing of seafarers. Worship at local Phuoc Kien Pagoda is a good example.

A 400-year-old Chinese community is reflected in buildings and ceremonies at particular temples.

Will the new exchanges make Hoi An’s own culture unclear to be realised, especially now when the city is organising more cultural exchange programmes to promote tourism?

I don’t think so. With such mixing and exchanging, local characters will become bolder. In cultural interaction, people can see what can be imported and what should be preserved. A special feature of Hoi An is the feeling of living in the countryside right in the middle of the city.
 
VietNamNet/VNS




TRAVEL IN BRIEF 3/1

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Early Tet bookings on the rise

Tour operators in the country have received early bookings from overseas Vietnamese returning home for Tet (Lunar New Year holidays). Vietravel has reported an even bigger number of 3,600 overseas Vietnamese tourists during the holiday.

Saigontourist Travel Service Co as of Monday had received bookings from more than 2,100 overseas Vietnamese, up 20 per cent compared to the same period in 2008. Most of these tourists have booked domestic tours to favorite destinations such as Phu Quoc Island, Ha Noi, Sa Pa, Da Nang, Hue, Phong Nha, Nha Trang and Phan Thiet.

Vietravel has reported an even bigger number of 3,600 overseas Vietnamese tourists during the holidays. Of them, 1,200 people have booked domestic tours and 2,400 have reserved outbound tours. The tour operator also said these visitors were making reservations earlier than last year’s holiday.

Tour Da Lat flower fest by air

Two flying inflatable boats, which are owned by Mai Linh Corp and were used in the coastal cities of Nha Trang and Ha Long, will serve tourists during the Da Lat Flower Festival from today to next Monday.

From Xuan Huong Lake, tourists who want to see the city of flowers from the air can take a 15-minute city tour at an altitude of 120 to 150m for VND800,000 per passenger. According to pilot Pham Duy Long, these flying boats, which costs US$40,000 each, are equipped with Austrian Totax motors and Italian kite wings. He added passengers have to pay $120 to $150 each for a 15-minute flight.

New Thang Long-Ha Noi tour opens

Hanoitourist Travel Co has launched the "Thang Long-Ha Noi City Tour" which aims to offer visitors a chance to learn more about Ha Noi and its history. The tour will take visitors to the city’s cultural and historical sites that have made a significant cultural, humanitarian, architectural or social contribution to the city during the country’s history.

The tour starts at the Royal Citadel and then goes on to the old original house at 87 Ma May Street, Bach Ma Temple, the eastern defender of the former Thang Long citadel; O Quan Chuong, the eastern gate of the citadel; Voi Phuc Temple, the western defender of the citadel and Ha Noi’s Old Quarter. The city tour will also view the statue of King Le, Ha Noi Opera House, My Dinh new urban area, the National Convention Centre and the Ha Noi Museum.

Fly high in Nha Trang

Hon Tam – Nha Trang Sea Joint Venture Co will add hot air balloon rides to its list of tourist activities at Zone B of Hon Tam Resort on February 3. The 1.2 million-euro French-made balloon, which has arrived in Nha Trang, can hold up to 30 people to a height of 150m to contemplate the whole of Nha Trang Bay for 20 minutes.

PV - vietnamnet





In God’s Country

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Administratively speaking, the province of Dien Bien was created in early 2004 from the southern area of the former Lai Chau province (north of the Da River) and the town of Dien Bien.

 

Dien Bien Phu is now a modern and historical place with a blend of administrative buildings, modern hotels and cultural or historical sites, surrounded by a cluster of ethnic Thai villages. Tourists can enjoy home-stay accommodation there in a wonderful way to discover the Thai culture.

On our first night, my friends and I stayed at a private guest-house in the centre, but next day we decided to visit Men village, just 5km away.

The village is full of traditional Thai stilt-houses. It’s a charming and tranquil spot to enjoy fresh air and the whisper of the nearby stream.

The place is actually a more modern creation-I would prefer the truly rustic experience offered by a simple stilt-house with a thatched roof and a bamboo screen floor. 

Accommodation costs VND150,000 per night and includes a meal of sticky rice cooked in a bamboo basket, com lam (grilled sticky rice), boiled vegetables, dried buffalo and grilled pork, chicken or fish. Thai people from Dien Bien cook the most delicious rice I have ever tasted. You might also be treated to local delicacies such as roasted bees or chicken.

Thai beliefs

The Thai believe in Muong Con (the land of the living), Muong Phi (the land of the dead) and Muong Then (the land of God). Dien Bien province, where 40 percent of the population is estimated to be ethnic Thai, is God’s country as here you will find the valley of Muong Then.

According to a Thai legend, God (Then) created human beings in a gourd, which he punctured with a pin to release the humans onto the earth. The first people to emerge from the gourd were the Xa. They were followed in turn by the Thai, the Lao, the Lu, the Mong and finally the Kinh (the Vietnamese ethnic majority). The gourd then became a mountain, which stands today in Tau Phung commune in the middle of the Muong Thanh valley.

There are two main Thai tribes in Dien Bien province: Black Thai and White Thai, which you can distinguish from their head-dresses in black and white colour respectively.

House rules

Every town house has two sets of stairs-one on the left for men and one on the right for women but don’t worry if you forget which way to go. Thai people are very hospitable and easy going. You will often be asked to toast with alcohol during meals. I have learned through experience that Thai women can drink pretty well. Sure enough, one of my male friends, who is fond of a tipple, once had a few too many, then got pissed under the table.

Those who manage to remain sober over dinner are then invited to watch a traditional dance performance by Thai girls around a fire.

The dancing is known as Xoe. There are many different kinds, one called Kham khan moi lau, involving a handkerchief and betel nuts, intended to be used as a romantic dance and a way of showing hospitality. The dance known as Pha xi implies community solidarity and ancestral devotion. The Doi hon dance moves forwards and backwards, implying that human love is unshakable and faithful. The Nhuon khan dance is the most jubilant and is often performed after a good crop or at a wedding or house warming party.

End of the evening

At the end of the performance, everyone is invited to join in the Kham Khan dance where a large circle is formed. The dance signifies both community solidarity as well as a common wish for a happy and prosperous life. Everyone dances hand in hand around a wood fire creating a wonderful social and festive atmosphere.

After a sumptuous meal with a few shots of liquor and an evening of dancing we all fall into a deep sleep on the brocade mats spread out across the bamboo floor despite the wind and the rain that has picked up outside.

In the morning there is enough time to pick up some of the brocades and embroidered products which are all handmade by women in the village. This tradition trade is now part of the local tourism industry which helps the Thai communities prosper and retain their cultural identity.

VietNamNet/Time-out





Chugging down history lane

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A relic from the past offers a new way to sightsee the resort town of Da Lat. 

 

A restoration of the old train has added to the allure of Da Lat

“It’s a pity that it is very short. I just want to travel like this from morning till evening!”

 

American tourist Kim Fieldhouse echoes the sentiments of many visitors who have chosen to tour through Da Lat on a new, old train.

 

“I’ve traveled to different places but I’ve never traveled by train on a plateau like this before.”

 

This new experience is now possible after four old carriages were restored, hatched to an old locomotive and put into operation a few weeks ago to replace the modern train on a seven-km stretch from Da Lat to Trai Mat.

 

The four carriages were fixed by experts from Ho Chi Minh City to look exactly the same as those used on the Da Lat-Phan Rang line in the 1930s.

 

The engineers even fixed the words “Da Lat Plateau Railroad” on the old carriages.

 

The restoration of the old train has drawn great interest from local and foreign tour operators because it could give tourists a chance to explore interesting things about the poetic town on the Lang Biang Plateau.

 

Second in the world

 

Built in the 1920s, the 84 km Da Lat-Phan Rang railway was the only one in Vietnam and second in the world that had a cogwheel line.

 

The cogwheel part was 34 km long, running through four tunnels with a total length of almost 1,000 meters, taking trains from the Krongpha Pass up the Ngoan Muc (Bellevue) Pass to Da Lat.

 

The Krongpha – Ngoan Muc section was completed in 1928, the Ngoan Muc – Dran section in 1929, the Dran – Tram Hanh section in 1930 and the completed line reaching Da Lat and was put in use in 1932.

 

It was abandoned during the prolonged wars against the French and the Americans. Even after southern Vietnam was liberated in 1975, no attempt was made to revive the line. It was consigned to memories of the past.

 

However, in the 1990s, concerned agencies decided to restore seven kilometers of the railway from Da Lat to Trai Mat for tourism purposes.

 

Now the train offers a vantage point for visitors to enjoy the wonderful scenery on either side of the railroad, like the Than Tho Lake (Lake of Sighs) or farms that grow carrots, potatoes, cabbages and many other vegetables.

 

They can also see enclosed buildings where flowers and vegetables are grown using modern cultivation methods as well as terraced farms where avocadoes, artichokes, peaches and strawberries are grown.

 

In the distance, the pine tree forests that the city is famous for, and the roads winding round hills highlight the charms the renowned hill side resort.

 

Architectural masterpiece

 

Construction of the famous Da Lat Railway Station started in 1935 and was completed three years later. It was designed by French architect Reveron and developed by his compatriot Moncet who directly supervised construction of the structure.

 

It was a technological and aesthetic wonder when completed. Its architectural design was very unique in the country then and now, and it became known as the most beautiful railway station in Indochina and France.

 

One of the most impressive features of the station is its tiled roof. There are three sets of tiled roofs running parallel to each other and joining with the main set of roofs of the building.

 

The departure lounge is lit by the natural light coming in through windows at the feet of the roofs. The station was recognized as a national historical and cultural relic in 2001, and authorities have preserved it with care as a major tourist attraction.

 

VietNamNet/TN





Wedding crasher

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Thai An visits a small town in Hoang Su Phi district, Ha Giang province in the Tay Con Linh mountain range, where a small tribe of Nung are celebrating a wedding.

 
I’m a long way from home, hungry and tired as I scale the mountain road that leads towards Ngam Dang Vai commune in Tay Con Linh mountain range, some 400km north of Hanoi.

Here amongst the precipitous slopes, a small tribe of Nung lives in contented isolation. The inhabitants live primarily on agriculture, producing rice, maize, tangerines, persimmons and anise. They are also known for their handicrafts, making items from bamboo and rattan, as well as indigo brocades. Nung are also well known for their carpentry and metal work.

When I roll into town I’m only thinking about a hot meal and finding a place to rest my weary head. But the first person I speak to informs me that today’s a very lucky day to arrive as a guest. There’s going to be a wedding. The whole village seems to be involved in the preparations. I forget about my fatigue and decide to find out more.

I head for the home of the groom, a young man by the name of Ly Van Thong. His family is preparing to head for the bride’s house with offerings of pork, cockerels, rice, sticky-rice, boiled chicken, alcohol and cash. The main wedding will be held tomorrow morning. I’m invited to stay with the head of the clan, a great honour for a complete stranger.

Early the next morning, I wake to the sounds of happy chatter. Everyone is up and busily preparing for the day ahead. The groom and his relatives must collect the bride who lives in a neighbouring village 6km away from Ngam Dang Vai commune. The groom and his entourage will walk along with a designated matchmaker.

The matchmaker plays an important role in determining the happiness and prosperity of the couple. So he must be of “good character” and have a happy family with sons and daughters.

The groom will wear traditional black and indigo-coloured clothes, symbolising faithfulness. He will have a new pair of military style boots and he will be armed with a black umbrella. Wearing a black dress, the bride Sin Thi Riu will look rather similar to normal Nung women only she will be wearing much more silver jewelry. Without any make up or cosmetics, she is still stunning and an advertisement for the grace of natural beauty.

Wedding customs and costumes of Nung people have remained unchanged for hundreds of years with the exception of improved footwear! Though most families have motorbikes nowadays, the wedding procession still travels by foot.

When the groom’s entourage arrives at the bride’s house, the delegation enters the stilt-house and spends a night there, talking around the fire, feasting and toasting. The wedding night is cosy and jolly with plenty of strong rice alcohol being passed around. People nibble on quids of hot betels and areca-nuts while listening to mellifluent love songs. The young and the old share stories and tell jokes and everyone laughs long and hard. When toasting with a d rink, you must always cross your hands and drink from the person opposite’s glass to demonstrate trust.

The wedding has numerous steps and I’m told it will last for at least a week. But in the morning I’m travelling on. I bid farewell, wishing the groom and the bride the very best for the future.

VietNamNet/Timeout




Cruising through curtains of mist on Ba Na Mountain

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When we arrived, Ba Na Mountain was sinking into the curtains of mist that was formed by the early winter rain. Although it was just afternoon, the mountain turned into a darker green landscape under the sky shrouded in dark clouds. To some extent, we were not lucky when making the trip there in rainy weather, but we had no choice for we could not guess what it would be tomorrow. Anyway, we decided to draw the curtains of mist to conquer the resort mountain which is very popular in the central city of Danang.

The mountains look dim in the mist from a cable car on its route to the peak.
The mountains look dim in the mist from a cable car on its route to the peak.

“Here comes the cable car. Get aboard please!” a serviceman said, urging our group of six into the cabins which were slowly turning around at the terminal at the foot of Ba Na Mountain, which is some 25 kilometers southwest of Danang City.

I do not like the height, to tell the truth. Hanging in the air on a steel cable in such weather made me worry. I set aside the fear to join the others to head for the mountain’s peak. No sooner did the cable cars leave the terminal to swing in the air than I understood why a young girl had decided to jump out of our cabin as it was closing its doors to start the journey-in-the-air.

“I will stay and wait for you all here, I have experienced the cable car service before,” she said waving her hand, trying to hide her fear behind a smile. A mixed feeling of fluttering filled my heart when our cable car slowly was sliding upward, passing through layers of mist covering the big trees. From time to time, the car swayed lightly in gusts of cold wind carrying raindrops that beat the outside of the car. Regardless of the mist, we sometimes could see a road appear and disappear under the leaf canopy, leading to the mountain top that used to be a resort town.

It is said that Ba Na Mountain was found in the 1900s by the French, who wanted to find a cool place to escape the heat in the central region. Standing some 1,500 meters above sea level, Ba Na is granted a cool climate. It is one reason the French chose the hilly region for a resort destination during colonial time. There were facilities here, including a hospital, post office, theater, market and hotels to name a few. The French built some 200 villas on these mountains for holiday makers. However, time and wars have left Ba Na a deserted jungle for many years.

It was not until recent years the mountains were refurbished into a tourist destination. Among the facilities, the cable car system shortens the distance from the foot to the peak of the mountain, instead of the road winding up and down the mountainside.

Finally, we reached the second terminal after 17 minutes to cover some 5,000 meters. For that distance, the Ba Na cable car system is recognized as one of the longest non-stop cable car systems in the world.

“So cold!” said a young man as he got out of the cabin and received stronger gusts of cold wind beating his face and piercing through his thin costume. Like him, I quickly unfolded a flimsy raincoat, which was given on the journey just in case of the rain, to put on as a sweater to keep warm rather than to keep dry.

“It is 14 degrees Celsius,” a serviceman said, showing us a long corridor leading to the second terminal to continue the journey to the top of the mountain.

The higher we reached, the thicker the mist we penetrated, and it seemed the temperature was a little bit lower. The distance from the second terminal to the end is shorter than the previous one. It takes around five minutes to reach the peak, where standing gleaming in the mist were modern hotels designed in French architecture.

Ba Na has two groups of hotels, Ba Na By Nigh – Le Nim, and Morin which province 164 rooms from standard to deluxe to serve visitors who want to experience a night in the mountainous region.

It is better to visit Ba Na in the summer when it offers a clear sky for travelers to see the imposing mountains and a panoramic view toward Danang City. If you have time, stay for a night to feel four seasons in a day with winter at night, spring in the morning, summer at noon and autumn in the afternoon, as it is often said about this destination.

For more information, contact Ba Na Hills Mountain Resort at An Son Hamlet, Hoa Ninh Commune, Hoa Vang District in Danang City, tel: 511 3791791.

VietNamNet/SGT





Vietnam’s tourism promotion program to be extended

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The country’s largest-ever tourism promotion program Impressive Vietnam will continue into the new year, instead of being wrapped up on December 31 as earlier scheduled, said a senior tourism official.

The country’s largest-ever tourism promotion program Impressive Vietnam will continue into the new year.
The country’s largest-ever tourism promotion program Impressive Vietnam will continue into the new year.

Vu The Binh, head of the travel department under the Vietnam National Administration of Tourism (VNAT), said that VNAT would have a meeting next month to review the program and discuss the extention.

“In the meeting, the administration will collect ideas from experts and entrepreneurs about new methods to carry out the program in the new situation,” Binh told the Daily, explaining that the extension of the grand sale program was aimed to create a sharper edge for Vietnam’s hospitality industry.

“We aim to improve the competitiveness of the country’s tourism sector (in 2010) rather than merely a supporting measure for local players in the challenging year (of 2009) only,” he said.

“We will extend the program but support for travel firms and the ways to deploy it should be changed,” he said.

Under the large-scale promotion program announced by VNAT early this year, big discounts of between 30% and 50% are being offered for visitors buying packaged tours with travel agencies who registered to join the program.

More than 85 travel agencies together with hotels, shopping venues, restaurants, and transportation companies have put their names down to join the program.

Along with promotions for foreign visitors, local tourists are receiving discounts of airlines and other services.

Binh said that the country’s tourism authority had launched the program to cope with the decline in international arrivals prompted by the global recession. However, as the sector is recovering, the VNAT needs to change the way to deploy it.

“This year we need the program to woo tourists to overcome the downturn. But now, we need a better program to raise the competitiveness of the country’s tourism,” Binh said.

He said the program had become a strong point for promoting the country’s tourism to international tourists. As for the domestic travel sector, the Impressive Vietnam has contributed greatly to the strong growth of local travelers this year.

“We can see the good impact on the domestic travel sector right now, which has grown by 19% this year,” Binh said.

However, the official said, the extended program will not offer travel firms big discounts in air tickets. Under the current program, Vietnam Airlines has given different promotions, the biggest discount being as high as 60%, to travel firms to make package tours more affordable to tourists.

“Business is recovering so partners especially Vietnam Airlines can’t run big promotions like those undertaken this year,” Binh said.

In early November, on behalf of the group of local travel firms participating in the Impressive Vietnam program, deputy head Tran The Dung requested the Travel Department to extend the program to June 2010.

According to VNAT, the country this year welcomes 3.8 million foreign visitors, down nearly 11% year-on-year, and 25 million domestic travelers, up 19% compared to last year. The tourism revenue is expected to grow between 6.5% and 9% to VND68-70 trillion.

VietNamNet/SGT





The milk of Moc Chau

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Among the wildflowers and tea fields of the rugged northwestern mountains, you’ll find some of the best milk Southeast Asia has to offer.  

As we approached the Moc Chau Plateau, the fields in the valleys below the high mountain road looked like a quilted blanket, an agricultural robe draped over the foothills and canyons.

We had left the town of Hoa Binh in the province of the same name earlier that day and the cooler temperatures now told us we were finally in Son La, a northwestern province bordering Laos.

Parts of the road were flanked by busy markets set up by the Mong and Muong communities indigenous to the area. They sold crafts and wares as well as local culinary specialties. We stopped for some hot fresh corn.

Before reaching Long Luong, our destination, we began to see vegetables and fruit orchards spliced between crop fields and glimmering in the spring sunshine. Every once in a while large mountains along the road would be separated by fields of flowers.

Long Luong, which the government has plans to turn into a major tourist destination, is at the center of Moc Chau District, where the road runs through vast forests of tea plants at the foot of the mountains.

But in addition to the tea, a lesser-known Moc Chau specialty is its fresh milk.

Since 1960, a special military unit stationed in Moc Chau has been raising cows and producing what might be the best milk Southeast Asia has to offer.

Moc Chau was the first locality to raise cows and produce milk commercially in Vietnam. It produces about 12 tons of milk a year from 5,000 cows.

Tourism infrastructure is underdeveloped in Moc Chau at the moment, but this is not necessarily a bad thing, especially because most of the roads in the area are in good condition – that is, perfect for motorbiking.

Other culinary traits of the area include the 30-kg wild pig. Its flesh is tough and sweet; its skin is crispy and it is lean on fat. It can be boiled, smoked or roasted.

Moc Chau is also known for its tasty buffalo jerk, fried fish and boiled bamboo shoots which are not bitter like bamboo elsewhere.

Many of Moc Chau’s fields are white with flowers in the spring, the mix of flowers and corn fields creating checkered patterns when you look down on the district from its mountaintops.

In October, the traditional Cow Festival, now called the “Cow Beauty Contest,” pits the best-looking dairy producers against each other to see who can be queen.

The cow that is the most beautiful and gives the most milk wins the competition.
 
HOW TO GET THERE ?

From Hanoi, travel southwest to Hoa Binh and then take National Road 6 west to Moc Chau. The best means of transportation is a private vehicle as the roads are pretty and at some times steep. A motorbike is great for an adventure. It is also the best way to admire the natural beauty along the road.

In Moc Chau, the best place to stay at is Cong Doan Hotel in Nong Truong Town. Rooms with basic facilities are VND200,000 (US$10.8) per night. There are other hotels.






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