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Vietnam Open Tour News & Events

WEDNESDAY 14 OCTOBER, 2009 | RSS Feed

Win or lose, every buffalo is slaughtered and its meat sold

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With his big dark eyes, cuddly girth and gentle manner, he does not look like a fighter. Except for his horns. Curved like a scythe, they could inflict serious damage.

Locking horns: A fight between two buffalo at the Do Son Buffalo Fighting Festival. The annual festival, which tradition dates back to the 18 century, is a highlight cultural feature of the area.

He is known only as buffalo No 18, one of 16 specially trained beasts that made it through to the finals of an annual northern Viet Nam buffalo fighting contest which took place in Do Son recently.

Do Son’s buffalo-fighting tradition dates back centuries, organisers say, but its modern form has become a big-money event with high-priced sponsorship, high-stakes gambling and thousands of dollars in prize money.

For the participants, though, it is most importantly about community pride in this coastal district of fishermen and farmers near the northeastern port city of Hai Phong.

"I trained this buffalo like a sports athlete," Luong Duy Hong, 59, says the day before the fight.

Hong, a nephew of the buffalo’s owner, likens the animal to a professional football team with a big following of fans.

"It’s the pride of the whole club. This is Manchester," he says, walking the buffalo in the late afternoon sun.

Buffalo can still be seen labouring in Viet Nam’s fields but No 18 and other fighters are different. Like professional athletes, they are scouted and bought with one thing in mind: to compete.

"I sent my nephews to try to find a proper buffalo," says its owner, Luong Trac Ty, 75.

After months of searching they settled on this one, which has no name and is known only by the number printed in white on its dark rump.

The farming family bought it in February for US$3,400 and spent another VND40 million (US$2,200) of their own money on training and upkeep, they said.

That is a large sum in a country whose per capita income is about $1,000.

Tradition says Ty’s buffalo is brave because its thin hair is twirled into small spiral formations above each shoulder and on each side of its rump.

"That’s one of the reasons we chose this one," he says.

Bravery is one thing, but a fighting buffalo also needs training.

Gesticulating and talking excitedly, Hong says he has spent two hours every day swimming in a river and running with the buffalo, which has made it through two preliminary rounds to reach the finals.

After spending so much time with each other, man and buffalo have become close – "like brothers", Hong says.

But this is their last day together because, win or lose, every buffalo is slaughtered and its meat sold outside the stadium to people who believe it will bring them luck.

"When he is killed, I will not be there," Hong says.

Owners can recoup some of their expenses from the meat, which sells at a premium, while winning the fight would earn them a VND40-million prize.

But Hong says buffalo fighting is not a business.

"We participate for our honour and for the tradition of our area."

The next morning, haze turns the newly risen sun into an orange disc before seven teams, each from a district in the Do Son area, parade to the stadium.

In traditional dress they hold altars aloft, carry Buddhist flags and bang drums with their buffalo following behind.

Several thousand people have filled the stadium to overflowing. Ty smiles and says his buffalo is ready.

The fights are between two buffalo at a time. Sometimes there is a dramatic charge, a cracking sound as horns smash together, and pushing to and fro like wrestlers in a sumo match.

"It’s like a martial art," says Nguyen Van Hung, 29, a spectator from Hai Phong.

"I feel sorry when I see the blood on their faces," says Nguyen Quynh Huong, 28, who nonetheless cheers throughout.

The crowd shouts at the violent butting of heads but is far more restrained than the area’s notorious football fans.

At times there is little for them to get excited about; the animals simply stand there ignoring each other.

As soon as one of the beasts turns tail and begins heading toward the exit, he loses.

After the months of preparation, Ty’s buffalo gets its chance. It briefly touches horns with its opponent which then gives a short chase. No 18 trots off, a loser.

The final bout finishes just as quickly.

A buffalo owned by Hoang Gia Bon, which beat three challengers earlier in the morning, rushes towards its last opponent, hooking into its horns and lifting its head high. In about 60 seconds it is over.

"This buffalo was born with the nature to win," Bon says.

The wet-nosed animal’s young handlers – among them Bon’s son Vu Duc Minh – crowd around it shouting in victory.

As a handler, Minh, 17, was on the edge of the field during the fight.

"I was very scared, not for myself but for the buffalo because he is the pride of the whole extended family and we invested so much energy in him," he says.

His sadness that the animal will be killed is somewhat tempered by knowledge that its meat will be offered to their ancestors and to the community’s patron saint.

Local legend attributes the festival’s origin to the 18th century when two buffalo about to be sacrificed for the patron saint suddenly began fighting.

The Do Son festival is not the only buffalo fight in Viet Nam, but it is one of the most renowned contests.

"There will be a winner and a loser," Ty says, accepting his animal’s defeat. "It’s a lot of fun."

VietNamNet/AFP/VNS





Hanoi to host National Tourism Year 2010

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A ceremony was held in Hanoi on October 10 to celebrate the 999th anniversary of the capital and announce the National Tourism Year 2010.

A ceremony was held in Hanoi on October 10 to celebrate the 999th anniversary of the capital and announce the National Tourism Year 2010.

In his opening speech, Hanoi Mayor Nguyen The Thao noted that 999 years ago King Ly Thai To issued the Edict on the Transfer of the Capital, moving the capital from Hoa Lu (in Ninh Binh province) to Thang Long citadel (now Hanoi). Despite many upheavals of history, Hanoi became the assembly point of scholars, diverse cultures and ethnic groups from across the country. It is now the country’s political, administrative, economic, cultural, educational, scientific and technological centre.

Deputy Prime Minister Nguyen Sinh Hung handed over the symbolic flag of the National Tourism Year 2010 to Mr Thao.

Nearly 1,000 artists, actors and actresses entertained local audiences with special art performances that feature the distinctive cultural identity of Thang Long-Hanoi and promote the city’s friendly and attractive image to visitors.

The Tourism Year 2010 is closely linked to celebrations of the capital’s 1,000th anniversary. It will include nine major programmes and almost 30 activities, including tourism and cultural festivals and sports games. This is a good chance for Hanoi to show off the image of the City for Peace to local and foreign visitors.

VietNamNet/VOV





The rice steps of Mu Cang Chai

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A mountain district off the beaten path is home to the same stunning scenery as Sa Pa, but without the kitsch.

Just 350 km northwestern of Hanoi, foreign visitors can rech the perfectplace to see Vietnam's famoust rice terrages

A trip to Mu Cang Chai District reminds one of the Robert Frost poem:

“Two roads diverged in a wood/And I took the one less traveled by/And that has made all the difference.”

Mu Cang Chai in Yen Bai Province, about 350 kilometers from Hanoi and 1,000 meters above sea level, is unique and not well-known to foreign travelers – the perfect place to see Vietnam’s famous rice terraces drying from green to gold just before the harvest.

While the scenery here is not quite as dramatic as it is in Ha Giang Province’s Hoang Su Phi District, it’s much closer. Ha Giang involves days of driving treacherous, and sometimes impassible roads, and a guide to help you around areas bordering China. Mu Cang Chai is not too far from Hanoi and getting there is not difficult at all. It can make for a pleasant weekend jaunt.

And where Sa Pa is northern Vietnam’s most famous mountain spot, the popularity of the area and the fact that some trails are crowded with tourists has taken away from its charm. But going to Mu Cang Chai is an alternative to both these options: a road less traveled and less strenuous.

Off the beaten path

The two best routes to Mu Cang Chai avoid the less-pleasant major roads and instead traverse quiet countryside.

Route 1: Hanoi – Son Tay Town – Trung Ha Bridge (crossing over the Da River) – Co Tiet crossroads in Phu Tho Province’s Tam Nong District – Yen Bai Town – Mu Cang Chai.

This route offers a wonderful glimpse into the villages along the northern region’s largest river, the mighty Da.

Route 2: Hanoi – Son Tay Town – Trung Ha Bridge – Thanh Son District (Phu Tho Province) – Van Chan District (Yen Bai Province) – Mu Cang Chai.

Along this route are terraced fields and plenty of places to stop and enjoy sticky rice made traditionally by the local Tay Khao in Tu Le Town, Van Chan District. The town also offers unique hot springs where tourists and locals stop for relaxing bathing.

Step by step

Between Tu Le Town and Mu Cang Chai is Cao Pha Commune, home to several ethnic Mong and Thai communities.

The views from the hills above the commune’s 200 hectares of terraced rice fields are always striking and draw considerable attention from photographers during the harvest, when the gold of the ready crop plays off the green of the new crop, both of which contrast with the rich reddish brown soil left behind by the harvest.

All this surrounded by rugged green mountains and, if you’Source: Reuters lucky, a clear blue sky, or a mysterious and crisp fog.

To reach Mu Cang Chai from Tu Le, the road climbs Cao Pha Mountain to Cap Pha Pass, where cool breezes blow throughout the year. The drive to the top of Cao Pha takes you through a thick mountainside pine forest, a rarity in Vietnam.

There are plenty of spots to rest near the peak to get the best photos of the area.

This route also passes by the communes of Ze Xu Phinh, Che Cu Nha, and La Pan Tan, each of which is home to some of Vietnam’s most stunning terraced fields. The steep terraces in the high mountains and valleys are different than the flatter fields of Cao Pha.

This month is the best time to visit Mu Cang Chai, as it’s the harvest season and the landscape is at its most lush.

The second best time is in the end of May or early June.

VietNamNet/TN




An Lac Trang: a return to nature in HCM City

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Nature is full of secrets that defy understanding. Nature is also a place where people can return to their minds and find peace. For those who do not have time to go to a mountain or eco-tourism area far from HCMC to relax and let bygones be bygones, the An Lac Trang area in HCMC’s Cu Chi district is recommended as an ideal venue.

 Tourists practice tai chi at An Lac Trang in HCMC's Cu Chi district.
An Lac Trang covers two hectares on Ben Co Islet and is surrounded by shady green trees. The area is blanketed in stillness, greenness and peace. It boasts spacious wooden houses in ancient southern design, lotus ponds with silently drifting water hyacinths, green rice fields and vegetable farms and winding canals under the shade of thousands of gum-trees that whisper soft and low in the wind.

The destination is not a tourist site, but is host to the program ‘Yoga and Health’ for tourists to learn how to make tea, meditate, grow vegetables, practice yoga and swim. These activities aim to help tourists find quietness for themselves after surviving the noise and smoke of the bustling city and to forget the daily worries and stresses of modern life.

Upon reaching Cu Chi district’s Phu Hoa Dong commune, tourists are equipped with life jackets for the boat ride to Ben Co islet. Before starting ‘Yoga and Health’, tourists are asked to turn off their cell-phones, abide by the schedule of activities, refrain from eating meat, smoking and drinking alcohol, keep quiet during rest times and respect the surroundings.

The program is organized twice a month with 30 participants each time at a price of VND350,000 to VND450,000 per person based on contents and time (one day or two days) of the program. Students with shallow pockets will be supported by the organizers, said Ngoc My, head of the Vietnamese Tea Club.

To join the program, contact Thanh Son calligraphy company at 40A Bui Vien street, District 1, HCMC or the Vietnamese Tea Club at 17 Tran Quy Khoach street, District 1, HCMC.

VietNamNet/SGT





National tourism body to rate tourist boats

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The National Administration of Tourism will combine with the Ministry of Communications and Transport to rate the quality of tourist boats that offer accommodation services for tourists to stay overnight, on board, a tourism official said.

The new rule of the agency will have an impact on such kinds of tourist boats in Halong Bay in the northern province of Quang Ninh, as most tourist boats that accommodate tourists overnight are operating there.

Nguyen Van Tuan, head of the national tourism authority, told the Daily that his agency would classify tourist boats in the same way hotels are classified from one- to five-star standards.

"The national tourism agency will recognize tourist boats from three-star standard and higher. The provincial government will recognize two-star boats and those of lower quality," he said.

He said the agency has mapped out criteria to classify these boats. However, his agency needs to work with the Ministry of Communications and Transport in activities to classify the boats because they are operating under rules of the ministry.

"We expect to finish the activity this year to help tourists to select quality boats with convenience and create a competitive environment for boat owners to improve services as well as methods and equipments to protect tourists," Tuan said.

According to him, the new rule of the agency will have an impact on such kinds of tourist boats in Halong Bay in the northern province of Quang Ninh, as most tourist boats that accommodate tourists overnight are operating there.

The official estimated that around 460 tourist boats are operating on the bay, and some 100 of them are qualified for star rating.

VietNamNet/SGT






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